On location at...Fischersund

In downtown Reykjavík, nestled in a quiet little cobblestone alley, is a small black house. Inside, the room is dark, the floorboards creak, and a sense of intrigue fills the air. There are even whispers of a ghost said to reside there.

What is it about this house that brought me here in the first place, and why do I keep coming back?

The house is one of the oldest in Reykjavík, dating back to 1874. It was once a recording studio belonging to Jónsi of Sigur Rós, which may provide a clue as to why it first caught my attention. Although it’s no longer a studio, a different kind of magic is being created inside these black walls.

Today, the house is home to the art collective Fischersund, which bears the same name as the street it sits on.

Fischersund was founded in 2017 by siblings Jónsi, Ingibjörg, Lilja and Sigurrós as a way of bringing all their individual talents into one collaborative project. While primarily a perfume house, it feels more like an art gallery spanning multiple mediums, in addition to scent, there is music and visual art. Jónsi is the master perfumer and writes the music that accompanies each scent. Ingibjörg creates the visual art for each fragrance, including the bottle design. Lilja is a fine artist and photographer; she voices the scent poems and, alongside Ingibjörg, is responsible for the company’s art direction. Sigurrós, the youngest, is a nose, helping Jónsi create the scents and hand-blending all the products. The collaboration extends beyond the siblings as their parents also play a huge role, partners Kjartan and Sindri contribute to the music, and Albie works with Jónsi and Sigurrós on the scents.

My first exposure to Fischersund came years ago, and I wasn’t even in Iceland at the time. During lockdown - the longest I’d gone without visiting since my first trip - I received a 5ml bottle of Útilykt in the post. I remember opening the small tin and being instantly blown away. Inside was a tiny bottle nestled in Icelandic moss, and before I even sprayed it, I could already smell something special.

One spray took me straight back to the Icelandic countryside. It felt surreal. I fell in love with Iceland long ago, first through photographs of volcanoes and glaciers, and when I finally visited, something shifted in me. There’s a serenity to the island that’s hard to put into words. Life slows down there in a way that’s almost addictive.

So to smell Útilykt at home during lockdown felt almost unreal. It was Iceland. The word means the scent of the outdoors, the smell that clings to your clothes after they’ve dried outside, but this was Iceland’s version: fresh, mossy, salty, slightly smoky air. Suddenly, I could experience that feeling at home.

To be honest, I had never given scent much thought beyond wearing a cologne to smell nice. After experiencing Útilykt, I became captivated by the psychological power of fragrance, how it can transport you to a memory in an instant.

When I first walked into the store years later, I was incredibly excited to finally see the home of the magic I had already been experiencing from afar. I was not disappointed. You’re greeted by a black wall and a dark, narrow hallway. The smell hits you quickly and as the floor creaks with every step, you hear the gentle, soothing music which is unmistakably Jónsi-esque. Walking inside, often out of harsh weather conditions, feels like a warm embrace.

As you move further in, the main section of the store reveals itself. The scents are laid out in a boutique fashion, surrounded by thoughtful, relatable decoration. Art is everywhere. Resin blocks with sweets inside hang from the old ceiling. The music swells like the sea. A ladder in the corner invites you to climb up and peer through a small hole to watch a video. The back walls are covered in Icelandic moss, an original feature from Jónsi’s recording studio. The room is intentionally dark. Down a few small, uneven stone steps is a cellar space used for art installations. In another section sits Jónsi’s perfume organ, made from an old organ and now housing essential oils from which many of the scents were created.

There is no awkward pressure to purchase anything. You’re welcomed enthusiastically and encouraged simply to explore.

The real magic of Fischersund lies in the stories. The scents, largely created by Jónsi in the beginning, each tell something personal and unique. Útilykt quite literally smells like fresh Icelandic air, if you’ve been to Iceland, you’ll recognise it immediately. No.54 is an homage to the siblings’ father’s garage, dark and moody. The original No.23 nods to old Reykjavík and Jónsi’s memories of working with his father at the harbour. There’s also No.8 which is inspired by growing up in the small village of Mosfellsbær and has many candy-like tones - smells which bring you right back to childhood. 101 was created to smell like the backyards of Reykjavík and was made by distilling a variety of the local plants. There is also Flotholt and a number of limited editions, along with the recently launched Faux Flora range — a collection exploring the five stages of human life mirrored through the life cycle of flowers.

Each scent’s story is brought to life through a scent poem, written to help transport you into the world that inspired it. You’re asked to close your eyes and inhale the scent as the poem is read aloud. Every line describes something within the scent, freshly mown grass, stolen rhubarb from a neighbour’s garden, Arctic wind, lemon candy, drifting snow, a car heater on full blast, even a beached whale. As each image is spoken, you can really smell it, which is incredible, perhaps with the exception of the whale. These may be the creator’s memories, yet somehow each scent feels as though it was made just for you. The descriptions are universal, tapping into childhood moments or long-forgotten experiences. We've all put a chain back on a bike or had candy stick inside our pockets. Scent is directly linked to the part of the brain that holds emotion and memory, meaning a single inhale can transport us back in seconds.

Over the years, I’ve visited the store many times. It has become an essential part of my trips to Iceland. Everyone is always welcoming, and Lilja is a gracious host. We’ve shared a few schnapps together - Fischersund’s own moonshine inspired by the ghost said to inhabit the building. Legend has it that Anna Sprútt, a former resident, brewed and secretly served alcohol through a hatch in the basement during a time when it was illegal in Reykjavík. The moonshine is a fun little nod to that while adding another sensory dimension to the experience. A herbal tea is also on offer if you would rather skip the alcohol. 

Fischersund also holds exhibitions across Reykjavík and beyond, including “Decay” at Kling & Bang, which I was lucky enough to experience alongside a sound bath concert, a fully immersive, multi-sensory event. Similar events have taken place in Seattle, Copenhagen and Cork. I fully recommend experiencing one of the concerts if you have the chance. 

Fischersund has recently, and deservedly, once again been named “best goddam store” in Reykjavík, and it’s easy to see why. But what I always take away from my visits isn’t just the magic inside those black walls. It’s how welcoming and kind the siblings, and the extended Fischersund family are.

It feels like a reflection of Iceland itself. The people, the warmth, the sense of care. It’s one of the reasons I keep returning.

Takk.